Thursday 31 January 2013

A day at the beach

Today is my last day here in Perth so I decided to spend it on the beach.   Perth boasts some of Australia's best beaches, many of which are ideal for swimming during the warmer months (i.e. now).  Perth's beaches are on the open ocean and there are several sections along the kilometres of coastline that are patrolled and/or have lifeguard stations. 

Perth's beaches are LOVELY, but a bit on the modest side.  You won't find Western Australia's biggest and best surf, most spectacular rock formations, or most colourful tropical fish in Perth, but you will find beautiful beaches in an elemental sun-sand-water sort of way.

I started my day at Scarborough Beach which is said to be one of the more "built up" sections of Perth's beaches.  There were a few more people here today than when I was here the other night for sunset but and really, "built up" here doesn't compare at all with Miami or the Gold Coast!!



After enjoying the ocean here for a little while I decided to go for a walk.  Part of the time I walked along the beach and part of the time I walked along a trail that has been built through the dunes that border all along the beach.  Dune regeneration is extremely important along this section of the beach and has been highly successful - in part because well marked pathways have been set up at very regular intervals in order to accommodate all the beach visitors.



After about 4 kms I thought it was time to stop walking and simply enjoy hanging out on the beach again.  Now I was at Floreat Beach.  It's a slightly 'quieter' beach than Scarborough Beach but it does have a lifeguard station which I wanted for when I went swimming again.






And now it's my last night in Perth and Susan is preparing me a wonderful meal of lamb and salads.  Tomorrow is a travel day for me and since there is only one flight per day direct from Perth to Canberra (and it comes with a lovely price tag too) I am on one of several flights that have a stop-over in either Adelaide, Melbourne or Sydney  I have a 2.5 hour stop-over in Adelaide, and combine that with the time changes and I will be spending the whole day travelling - leaving Perth at 8:00 am and arriving in Canberra at 6:30 pm.

Despite spending several hours at the beach today I didn't see any sharks or for that matter even hear the shark alarm go off (which I have to admit I was hoping would happen - without anyone being hurt of course!).  I just checked the shark alert website though and one was spotted just off one of the beaches where I was walking - but this morning instead of this afternoon (shucks).  Thankfully there haven't been any recent attacks on any Perth beaches but there has been a significant increase in sightings over the past few months.  And it's not just white pointers that are being spotted. There are hammerheads, tiger sharks and other species too.  Locals (and scientists) will tell you there's little doubt that there are more sharks of many species close to the coast.  No one can say for certain why this is happening but the idea about an ocean heatwave forcing sharks into cooler waters near the shore certainly sounds plausible. 

Wednesday 30 January 2013

Fremantle

Although I would argue that Fremantle is a suburb of Perth, the people who live in Fremantle will say they live in the "City of Fremantle" and that it is NOT a part of Perth ... even though it really is.

Fremantle is Western Australia's chief port, situated at the mouth of the Swan River.  Founded by the raising of the Union Jack at Arthur Head on 2 May 1829, by Captain Charles Howe Fremantle of H.M.S. Challenger, he claimed the west coast of New Holland (Australia) as British territory.  The first British settlers arrived in early June 1829 to found the Swan River colony.


In a country predominately settled by convicts, it is not surprising that the first permanent building to be built in Western Australia was a prison.  The Round House Prison, so named because of it's unusual 12 sided shape, was built in 1831.  It was purpose built as a gaol to house locals who broke the law and was used until 1886.  The site chosen for this gaol was a headland which overlooked the river mouth.  It had eight cells and a jailer's residence, which all opened up into a central courtyard.  This was also an obvious place to establish navigation lights and a signalling station.



From 1900 a dropping ball and sound signal were used each day at 1:00 pm to signal the correct time to navigators on ships entering Fremantle Harbour.  This procedure was discontinued in 1937 but since 1998 volunteer guides at the Round House have re-enacted the ceremony every day.  I was there for the firing of the cannon today, and you can see the flag pole in the background behind the Round House.  The flags are flown to welcome vessels of foreign origin to the port of Fremantle.  The flag is hoisted to the top of the flagstaff as the vessel enters the heads.  It remains aloft for approximately 10 minutes and is then lowered.  Fremantle is one of only a few port cities around the world that still undertakes this courtesy to visiting vessels of foreign origin.


Bathers Beach is the site where Captain Charles Howe Fremantle landed in 1829 and proclaimed the land as British territory.  Nowadays it is a great place to swim!


The Whaler's Tunnel below the Round House was built by the Fremantle Whaling Company in 1837 to allow the company easy access between Fremantle town and Bathers Beach.


The limestone Heritage Listed building that is currently the Kidogo Art Institute was built in 1884 as a dangerous goods and kerosene store.  It is perched on the sand dunes a few meters from the sparkling waters edge of Bathers Beach.


Fremantle Town Hall was opened in 1887.  The opening coincided with the celebration of Queen Victoria's Jubilee and it was formally named as the Town and Jubilee Hall.


The first rail line from Perth to Fremantle opened in 1881.  This station building was built in 1907 and today continues to be the hub of Fremantle's public transport system.


This particular street is known as 'Cappuccino Strip' and is renowned for its coffee houses and small restaurants.


The Fremantle Markets opened in 1897, forming a precinct providing handicrafts, speciality foods, dining halls and fish and vegetable markets.  Nowadays over 150 stalls are housed in the Victorian-era building, which was listed by the National Trust of Australia and the state's Heritage Council in 1980.


This building was built by convicts in 1861 as a lunatic asylum.  It was initially called the Fremantle Lunatic Asylum, and later known as the Asylum for the Criminally Insane.  Since then it has also been an invalid depot, a women's refuge home, a naval base during both the World Wars, a technical college and is now the Fremantle Arts Centre.


With a ratio of three convicts to every one free man, the town quickly outgrew the tiny Round House Prison and was forced to build a larger scale prison.  The Fremantle Prison was built by convicts in the 1850's and was used continuously as a place of incarceration and punishment for 136 years - until 1991.  In 2005 Fremantle Prison was included on the National Heritage List and in 2010 is became the first building in Western Australia to be included on the prestigious World Heritage List.



A re-creation of typical 1855 cell accommodation:


The main prison building was divided into several parts.  In the main block, four divisions were created:  One Division for short sentences, remand prisoners, and (up until 1970) juveniles as young as 13 years old; Two Division for serious crimes without violence; Three Division for violent criminals and Four Division for murderers and long-term men.


It also had solitary cells

and gallows.  The gallows room was the only legal place of execution in Western Australia between 1888 and 1965, with 43 men and one woman hanged in this period.

The original prison contained an Anglican chapel, and a Catholic prison was built later on in the prison's history.  Behind the Anglican chapel altar there is a painted representation of the Ten Commandments.  The words to the sixth commandment use the unusual translation of "thou shalt do no murder" rather than "thou shalt not kill," the more common interpretation in the Church of England.  Given that the gallows were still in regular use, it was felt that "thou shalt not kill" would have been hypocritical.

Many cells and areas of the prison depict prisoners' artwork.  Although painting or drawing on walls was originally forbidden, this rule was relaxed in special cases where art was found to calm violent prisoners, and was relaxed generally towards the end of the life of the facility.


In addition to the prison, construction of  4 two storey houses lining the west boundary wall at the front of the prison began in 1852.  These were to house the senior officers of the institution and were all completed by 1857.


Even after only one day, I was very aware of the depth of character that Fremantle possesses.

Tuesday 29 January 2013

Parks and beaches

There are plenty of parks here in Perth, but probably the most well known and popular is Kings Park and Botanic Garden.

The total area of the park is 400.6 hectares and features both cultivated gardens and untamed bushland.  The area known as Kings Park and Botanic Garden has been a part of aboriginal history since earliest dreamtime.  For thousands of years Kaarta (hill/head) Gar-up (water-place of) has been one of the many names Nyoongar people used for the land at the top of the escarpment now known as Mount Eliza.  Kaarta Gar-up and adjacent areas were places of ceremony and shelter, places of food - whether hunting the kangaroo or searching for the succulent roots and fruits of 'bush tucker' - and places for tool making and teaching.

With great foresight, part of the area was 'set aside' for public purposes in 1831.  In 1872, 175 hectares were gazetted as recreation and park land, and this was increased to 400 ha in 1890.  The area was named Perth Park in 1895 and re-named to Kings Park in 1901 to mark the accession of Edward VII to the British throne.
The 17 hectare Botanic Garden was opened in 1965 with the main focus being the stunning diversity of Western Australian flora.




This stunning park overlooks the city and the blue waters of the Swan River.




Here is the front of the Swan Brewery that I saw from the river cruise yesterday.


Boab trees are found in the north of Western Australia in an area known as the Kimberley, and several were transported to Kings Park to celebrate the unique Kimberley area flora.   This particular boab tree is estimated to be 750 years old and it travelled 3200 kms to be re-planted here in Kings Park in 2008.  This was the longest land journey of a tree of this size in history - and the good news is it continues to grow well in its new home!



Federation Walk includes a walkway above the tree tops, where the birds' eye view is truly captivating.



The State War Memorial complex dominates Mount Eliza, providing a dramatic setting for ceremonies held throughout the year.



Now - if you remember I told you I'm staying in a suburb called Scarborough while I'm here in Perth ... but I don't think I mentioned that Scarborough is actually a suburb located right on the ocean (I told you it wasn't at all like the Scarborough in Toronto!).   And if you've given it any thought at all, you might have thought that since Perth is on the west coast perhaps there are some wonderful sunsets to be seen... well I did give that some thought and decided to check it out.  So off to the beach I went.  Scarborough Beach is a very popular place in the late afternoons for windsurfing and kite boarding,





and a pretty lovely sunset to end the day!