Cheryl's Travels: Red Bay and Mary's Harbour

Named Baie Rouge by the French in the 17th century, Red Bay (population approximately 150) is an ideal natural harbour, sheltered from the ocean by Saddle Island. Red Bay is one of the oldest occupied ports along the Labrador Straits. The earliest European occupants were Breton fishermen and then Red Bay was used by the Basques as a whaling station during the 16th century. Four hundred years ago, Basque Whalers carried out a very large whaling fishery in Red Bay; at the time Red Bay was the largest whaling port in the world. Red Bay is also the site of an extensively studied archaeological dig, begun in 1978, of a large 16th century seasonal Basque whaling station. Underwater archaeology at Red Bay has also revealed the most complete 16th century ocean-going vessel excavated to date. It was extremely well-preserved by the cold water and silt of the harbour. This vessel is believed to be the Basque galleon, the San Juan. It was completely excavated, recorded and reburied in the harbour.

This is the B&B I stayed at here in Red Bay - beautiful location. Below is the view from my bedroom window.

This is the wreck of the Bernier, which grounded in 1966

Something I learned on this trip is that there aren't any micro-breweries, at all, anywhere in Labrador (do I see a possible retirement opportunity here?). Qidi Vidi Brewery is in St. John's and it's not a hardship having to drink its beer.

The way the fog came in tonight was absolutely beautiful!

By the mid-16th century, at least a dozen whale oil rendering stations were located in Red Bay. Nowhere else in the world will you find a more complete example of early industrial-scale whaling than at Red Bay, designated a World Heritage Site in 2013. An interpretation centre and several walking trails on Saddle Island relive the Basque whaling tradition through a remarkable collection of original artifacts, archaeological remains, videos and models.

Travelling over to Saddle Island - Red Bay in the background

On Saddle Island

The building in the foreground is the B&B where I stayed

Continuing along the coastal drive, some beautiful scenery on the way to Mary's Harbour.

Lodge Bay (population approximately 65), located on the St. Charles River got its name from Ranger Lodge which was settled by Captain George Cartwright in the 17th century. Ranger was the name of his first ship and Lodge was the name of their homes in England at that time. It later became the winter home of fishermen from Conception Bay who had summer fishing stations off Cape Charles and Camp Island.

The road over the St. Charles River

It's approximately 100kms with nowhere else to go, so best to heed this sign

Mary's Harbour, with a population of approximately 325, surrounds the beautiful St. Mary's River. St. Mary's River was the site of a salmon fishery as early as the 1780s however Mary's Harbour was not a permanent settlement until 1930. Mary's Harbour has always depended on the fishery for its livelihood. Since the cod moratorium the community has thrived on the crab fishery. The Labrador Fishermens' Union Shrimp Company employs over 120 people at the local crab processing facility. It is also the gateway to the Battle Harbour National Historic District of Canada.

Mary's Harbour has a few lovely walking trails, and I had time to explore two of them when I was there.

The Gin Cove Trail leads to a cove that was settled before people actually lived in Mary's Harbour. Along this trail there is also excellent views of Mary's Harbour, the Atlantic Ocean and the waterway to Battle Harbour.